Replacing the Ignition Switch – Step by Step with Pictures.
Since I found the Text Article very useful, I thought I’d put some Pictures to it and rework it a bit for future generations.
I’m referencing the How To by Franco Barber found here: Original How To and have done some direct copy and pasting where I could.
The Switch is obtainable at your local VW/Audi Stealership, I paid $44 including tax. Part # 4A0 905 849B. DO NOT get the cheap white replacement on this one. Get the Genuine VW/Seat/Skoda/Audi part which should be black. Rumor has it that if you cheap out and get the white one, you’ll be doing this proceedure again in a year with another new switch. (There’s a “once you go black,” joke in there somewhere.)
Ok, here we go, Step by Step.
Step 1:
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! Several very good reasons, I’ll go into them later. Also make sure you have your Radio code if your stock radio requires it after loss of power.
Step 2:
You need to remove the Gauge Cluster. To do this Move the Steering Wheel all the way down, and out. Some ppl remove the Wheel, I didn’t find it necessary. Put down a towel on top of the steering column to avoid scratches.
You remove the two screws from below the trim piece, then the screws holding the cluster into the dash it’s self. Pulling the Cluster out of the dash has been described as a “Chinese Puzzle,” Take your time. When it’s out, rotate it forward and disconnect the plugs from the back and set it aside.
Whatever you do be careful of scraping the bottom of the cluster on the metal cluster mounts of the Dash. On the S6 cluster, there is an exposed Circuit board on the bottom of the cluster that YOU DO NOT WANT TO SCRAP (not sure about the S4 cluster.) This is also a reason for disconnecting the Batt. If you bridge two solder lines of this exposed board on the metal you will totally Fubar your cluster. (There is power to the cluster even if the ignition switch is off.) If you smell burnt electrical componenents, it’s too late.
DISCONNECT THE F’N BATTERY!
Step 3:
To the right of the ignition switch and up a little bit is a flasher relay mounted to a bracket, with a cable that runs back and connects to the same harness that the ignition switch connects to. Remove the flasher from its mounting bracket and move it out of the way. It just pops or slides out. I didn’t disconnect the harness from the flasher, just got it out of the way.
You can then use this bracket to hold a small pocket flashlight (like the one I got from Secret Santa of ’07.) You can see how I did in the 3rd picture below. Thanks Secret Santa ’07 
Step 4:
I removed the electrical Plug from the back of the switch before step 5. The reference article didn’t do this; I just found it easier to get the switch out without the wiring harness there, as I have big hands.
I used a larger flathead screwdriver as a prybar. It popped right off with minimal effort. Since I had THE BATTERY DISCONNECTED, I didn’t have to worry about welding myself or the screw driver to the dash. Which is always a nice thing.
Step 5:
The switch is held in place by two set screws. You will need a Very Small Flathead screw driver for them. I used a 3mm electronics screw driver.
There is some red loc-tite that keeps them from vibrating loose. Have some loc-tite handy before you start so you can lock them down again after you’re done.
You don’t have to completely remove the set screws to get the switch out. You can just back them out about 3-4 turns and still get the switch out. Press hard with the small screwdriver and turn to get through the Loc-tite.
The Switch will then slide backwards and you will be able to pull it out.
Here is the naughty broken one:
And here he’s posing side by side for a picture with his much more well behaved and reliable replacement:
Step 6:
Getting the Plug / Wiring harness into the back of the switch was impossible when the new switch was mounted back in the dash first.
I ended up mating them, and then reinserting the whole thing into the bracket, then tightening the set screws. It’s tight, but you can get it.
Don’t forget to re-loc-tite the set screws. You can also use a small dab of enamel paint. (and no worry about sparks when mating the switch parts! Did I mention I disconnected the Battery?)
Note: no white switch anymore, just black!
Step 7:
Re-connect / Mount the flasher relay.
Step 8:
Re-connect the cluster and remount.
You will want to take the time to put some electrical tape or epoxy over the exposed circuit board on the Cluster. I also put electrical tape over the metal screw mounts and just ran the screws through it when I re-screwed in the cluster for future piece of mind.
This is also a good time to upgrade your dash lights to LED’s or the 2W halogen version of the bulbs. You can get the LED’s at Super Bright LED’s Scroll down to Instrument Cluster LED’s. There are several other online suppliers. Pick your favorite. You’ll need 9 of them and I recommend red. LEDs are polarity sensitive, if you put one in and it doesn’t light up, rotate it 180.
Summary:
That’s pretty much it. Not a hard job, but it can be a bit of a tight squeeze on some of the manuvers required.
I’d rate it at the difficulty level of a single bloody knuckle and two beers for the frustration of getting the cluster out without fubaring it (Ask Weldon how much my replacement was.)
Total time was under an hour and a half including picture taking.