UrS4 Frequently Asked Questions

March 21, 2009

Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

Filed under: ICE — Tags: , — admin @ 1:39 pm

Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

How-to integrate an aftermarket head unit with stock Bose components


I decided to go ahead and put together some information for everyone on integrating an aftermarket head unit using the Metra harness. This is using a 1995 S6 Avant with Gamma head unit as an example. I’ve found alot of FUD regarding integration with the stock Bose components, so I figured it was time to layout the facts.

What you need:

1. Metra 70-1785 harness (for easy connection to Audi harnesses)
2. Head unit with 4x >2.2v preamp outputs (for the Bose amp connections)
3. 2x ground loop isolators (prevents popping on track change)
4. High quality crimp tool (for wiring the Metra to your HU harness)
5. 5x Insulated crimp caps 14-18gauge (for the wiring connections)
6. Audi radio removal tools for your car (to get your radio out)

Head unit suggestions:
1. 4x preamp outputs of 4v
2. ability to turnoff internal amp
3. time-delay configuration for each channel

Some key points to note. You will need to wire your power antenna/remote amp trigger connection to turn on/off the Bose amps with the head unit. The GLI’s (ground loop isolators) are connected between the LF/RF/LR/RR pre-amp outputs and the harness connections to each channel on the Bose amps. The GLI’s will eliminate the pop when changing tracks by preventing a discharge of the Bose amps, as modern stereos don’t use common ground. I got a pair from Bestbuy that seem to do a great job. Here’s a picture of the GLI’s installed with the Metra harness (this is a 2-piece harness):

gliupload Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

Only 5 connections in the bottom double Metra harness will be used. They are constant +12v (battery), switched +12v (ignition), illumination, Amp Trigger and Ground. I have also labeled a photo of the harness below. Make sure you twist your wire connections tightly. You can solder them too, if you like. Here is a labeled photo of the diagram on the Gamma unit to show exactly which connections are used for the installation:

gammalabelupload Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

Backside photo of the 2nd piece of the Metra harness. I removed all the extra wires that weren’t needed.

harnesswiresupload Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

I’ve built harnesses for a Kenwood with 2.5v pre-amps and the Alpine CDA-9887, which I’m currently using. They both sound excellent with no popping ever (my stock gamma in both cars used to pop occasionally on track changes). The Alpine sounds far superior to the Gamma, especially after configuring balance/fade and the time delay for each channel. I want to try out the Alpine Imprint sound tuning kit with the Bose components. I will update this after I Imprint tune the system to let you know how things turn out, as of right now I see no need to do a Bosectomy. Here’s a finished shot (ignore dust):

installedupload Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

The head unit fits perfectly, as the gamma uses a standard sized opening. It just slides right in and maintains a tight pressure fit. You can use the Crutchfield car configuration function to determine stereos that will fit this opening. I’ve tried to include everything, feel free to post any comments or questions and I’ll update accordingly. See my picposter for a few extra photos of stuff.

Installation of an iPod in an UrS

Filed under: ICE — Tags: , — admin @ 12:15 pm

Installation of an iPod in an UrS


There are several ways to do this. With the UrS4 you can trick the Audi/Bose head unit into thinking the iPod is the CD changer. For the UrS4, you need the silver CD transceiver box.

One fairly simple and inexpensive method is linked below:

iPod installation complete


I finished my iPod installation using the silver box. It turned out to be relatively easy once I figured out the wiring. I purchased a 13-pin circular DIN connector for $1.98 (+ about $10 shipping and handling) from Digi-Key. I then took an old pair of headphones that my daughter had broken and clipped off the wire. I soldered together the two ground wires and connected them to pin 7, connected the right signal line (the one which connects to the middle ring on the mini-jack) to pin 5 and the left signal wire (the end connector of the plug on the mini-jack) to pin 9.

At this point I could plug in the silver box and plug the mini-jack into the head phone out line of the iPod. Switch on the radio and press the MODE switch to get CD — – 0 0, press play on the iPod and there is music!

Once I got to this point i went to Radio shack and bought a shielded headphone extension cable (16 ft long) and ran it from the trunk, aroung the passenger footwell and out below the ash tray. I purchased an iPod nano dock from the Apple store and set it between the shifter and the console.

ipod install in s6 Installation of an iPod in an UrS

ipod in apple dock Installation of an iPod in an UrS

For now I put some velcro on the silver box and stuck it to the side of the trunk. I think that it will fit in the recess under the carpet at the edge of the trunk and that is probably where it will end up.

silver box Installation of an iPod in an UrS

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Gamma Radio Pinout Diagram

Filed under: ICE — Tags: , , — admin @ 11:32 am

Gamma Radio Pinout Diagram


gamma wiring Gamma Radio Pinout Diagram

March 20, 2009

C4 Nav+ update (long) – 3rd post- update and CC head install issues

Filed under: ICE,Navigation — Tags: , — admin @ 9:08 pm

Sorry for the long delay between posts on this- work has been very busy. Just wanted to do a update on issues found to date & status:

- Mechanical: Very close. I’m about 90% done fabricating a bracket to move the airbag control module back about 1 inch. There’s plenty of room to move it back, and that should provide enough clearance for the CC head to be installed flush.

- Electrical: Very frustrating. The “plug & play” harness wasn’t even close. I’m probably lucky it didn’t blow up the Nav+ unit. Some of the problems were wiring errors (the GALA signal was on the wrong pin), some were omissions (phone mute wasn’t even wired), and one was just plain stupid (reverse signal tied high- Nav+ thought I was doing 80MPH down I-95 in reverse!). I think I’ve fixed everything at this point, but I’m going to go over it wire by wire a few more times. It definitely should be straightforward to create a real P&P harness for the 95.5 and up cars- you’d need to connect to the K-line (relay box under hood) and reverse sense (haven’t found it yet) but all other signals appear to be in the 95.5 stock harness. I’ll have to study the earlier car (92-95) wiring a bit more, but it should be possible to create a P&P adapter for those cars also.

- Navigation: I’ve been driving around with it in the car for a few weeks now, and even though it’s not 100% it’s still very useful and quite entertaining to play with, although you have to be careful to pick your spots to glance down at the screen- it’s pretty low in the dash. The display shows a lot of stuff (rivers, lakes, town names, route numbers) that I never knew about on roads I drive all the time- my 7 year old is also highly entertained by the compass and map displays. For testing I’ve been using a simple GPS antenna that came with the harness, and it always seems to get 6-8 satellites (8 is the max) just sitting on the dash. I’m almost certainly installing a factory triplex shark fin (GPS, GSM, Satellite radio) along with the upcoming repaint, but if I weren’t wiring in other accessories that need the GSM and satellite, I wouldn’t bother with the sharkfin.

- Radio: The radio portion of the Nav+ is most likely just a Symphony I with a very different display- the D-navi is a double-din unit made up of 2 single DIN chassis bolted together with a common faceplate- the top one has the CD slot and all the Nav-specific connections. The display and controls took some getting used to, but are straightforward to use after some practice. I am fighting relatively poor reception for the radio, but the prior owner of my 95.5 hacked the bejeezus out of the antenna wiring to add an aftermarket CD changer, so that problem is most likely specific to my car. Only significant usability issue is a finding quick way to mute the radio- the problem is you can’t just turn off the radio without turning off the whole unit, and then having to wait a bit for the Nav+ reboot. You can just turn the volume all the way down, or there’s a way to mute the radio through the menus, but I’d prefer something simpler. I may add a switch that mimics the phone mute (nav commands still get announced) if I can’t find an easier way to do it through the controls.

- Accessories: You can use any Concert or Symphony-compatible accessories, including Phatbox, iPod adapters, etc.. I’m not going there, but it’s been done, and the CD changer wiring is a completely separate harness/plug, so it’s very straightforward elecrically.

- Overall: It’s not the best functioning nav unit on the planet, but I knew that going in, and so far at least it looks really cool, has been very useful, looks really cool, has been mistaken for a factory install, looks really cool, is easy to use, and, most importantly, looks really, really cool icon wink C4 Nav+ update (long)   3rd post  update and CC head install issues

Adding a double-DIN cage to a C4

Filed under: ICE — Tags: — admin @ 9:06 pm

How to make a C4 double-DIN opening


I couldn’t find anything describing how to make a double-DIN in my writeups or elsewhere. I’ve added this and my other posts to the FAQ, and I’ll try to get some pictures later today, since my car is in the process of being completely diassembled for paint anyway.

Design considerations:

If you want to keep the mirror control switch in the stock location, at least one of the console inserts used has to be a 95.5-up insert. This offsets the double-DIN cage so that the mirror control will still fit in the stock location, and can come from any 96-up A6.

If you’d prefer to have the double-DIN opening centered, use earlier inserts but be aware that you’ll have to relocate the mirror controls. I was considering moving the mirror controls to the driver’s armrest using controls from an 88-95 Audi 80 or 90, but decided it would be easier and a cleaner install overall to leave them in the stock location.

Regardless of how you locate the opening, adding a double-DIN cage to early cars (92-95) means you will lose the lighter socket. This isn’t an issue for the 95.5-up cars because they had the lighter socket relocated to the console where the early cars have the diff lock.

Parts required: 2 console inserts.

The basic process is to cut out the bottom of the radio opening the 1st insert, and then cut the second one down to where it fits into the 1st insert to form the bottom half of the double-DIN cage. The way I made mine was:

1) Cut out the bottom of the radio opening in the 95.5 cage.

2) Cut the second insert off below the radio opening, and also cut out the bottom of the radio opening.

3) Flip the 2nd insert upside down and line it up with the bottom of the upper insert’s radio opening.

4) Trim the second insert as needed to fit in behind the 1st console- leave enough material so you can fasten it to the 1st insert. Test fit the assembly into a console early and often.

5) Attach the second insert with screws or pop rivets.

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