UrS4 Frequently Asked Questions

March 21, 2009

Fixing the Moisture Trap or how to get at least 67 hp for about $3

Filed under: Engine,General Resources — Tags: — admin @ 1:38 pm

Fixing the Moisture Trap or how to get at least 67 hp for about $3


The C4 UrS has a moisture trap on the boost line between the intake manifold and the ECU (computer). The moisture trap is like an old style VW bug fuel filter, except without the filter element and it only deals with air flow. The idea is is provides somewhere for moisture to drop out of the boost signal hose before it gets to MAP in the ECU.

For the UrS4, this moisture is located above the connector rack on the firewall, as shown in the photo below. (The UrS6 moisture trap is down by the ECU, in the right side kick panel).
m trap urs4   labels Fixing the Moisture Trap or how to get at least 67 hp for about $3

At some point the OE clamps on the boost hose at the UrS4 moisture trap get lazy and allow boost signal leaks or, worse, allow the hose to come off the moisture trap. If this happens, your ECU never sees a boost signal so it doesn’t tell the N75 wastegate refrequency valve to do anything. All you get for boost is that provided by the wastegate spring (e.g. 6 psi stock). So essentially, you now have a normally aspriated engine making less than 170 hp, not the 227 hp (plus) of an AAN.

The solution is to remove the old OE clamps and for about $1 or $1.50 each, replace the OE clamps with the smallest gear clamps you can find (e.g. NAPA, Pepsi Boys, CTC, etc.). For $3, the ECU gets the boost pressure signal at the MAP and can now control the N75 WGFV to provide more boost that just the wastegate spring. As a result, you gain at least 57 hp (depending on what you were making before the hoses came loose on the moisture trap). Not bad bang for the buck.

PS: When buying an UrS4, this can be used in negotiations if you find a car with blown clamps. Check it out but don’t tell the owner. Use the info to your advantage.

Sun visor clip option…

Filed under: General Resources — Tags: — admin @ 1:35 pm

Sun visor clip option…


The OEM sun visor clips can break, and are unfortunately NLA at the dealer. Here may be an option for some of us…

I bought mine from the VW dealer. 06 Passat has similar but you need to move the wire over. $5!!!


new and old Sun visor clip option...

Not exactly the same platinum color but close enough for me. The base and hook are a bit thicker and more durable, that is why I went with the VW over the Audi.

The audi part should be available at genuineaudiparts.com
PNs:
443857562J Plat.
443857562B Ecrue

Model Year Comparison (from the old UrS4.com website)

Filed under: General Resources — Tags: — admin @ 1:23 pm

Model Year Comparison (from the old UrS4.com website)


This was done originally by Jimmy Pribble.

UrS4/S6 Buyers guide at S-cars.org (Link inside)

Filed under: General Resources — Tags: — admin @ 1:22 pm

UrS4/S6 Buyers guide at S-cars.org (Link inside)


Procedure to lobotomize your Auto Check bulb check function (sometimes needed when adding HIDs)

Filed under: General Resources — Tags: , — admin @ 12:01 pm

Procedure to lobotomize your Auto Check bulb check function (sometimes needed when adding HIDs)


But not always. Install the HIDs first, if the auto check tells you that you have bulbs out, you’ll probably want to follow the procedure in the link.

Lobotomizing the Autocheck Lamp Warning Module


from urs4.com

Phase 3: Lobotomize the autocheck lamp warning module

For the auto enthusiast who can’t discern that a headlight has burned out, Audi has thoughtfully equipped the car with a warning system that beeps and displays a yellow X-ed out bulb in the autocheck display. The lamp warning module on the UrS4 is a complex piece of kit located in the main relay box in the plenum under the hood. It also warns for burnt out taillights and brake lights, which is a useful feature. The headlight warning circuit consists of two precision resistors and an IC which compares microcurrents across the headlight bulb filaments. Since the ballasts have a
different resistance than H1 bulb filaments, the autocheck will drive you to distraction unless you make like a neurosurgeon and lobotomize the thing. The procedure I used is based on Igor Kessel’s excellent post in the Headlights section of urs4.com, here. Don your scrubbies, wash up, and let’s begin.

1. Remove the lamp warning module and gurney it to the operating table. It looks like a double-wide relay and is located in the main relay box under the hood.

2. Remove the cover from the module. Locate the precision resistors for the headlight comparator (Photo L1).
Photo+L1++Precision+resistors Procedure to lobotomize your Auto Check bulb check function (sometimes needed when adding HIDs)
The terminals for the headlights are tagged 56bl, 56bl1, 56br, 56br1. It is easy to locate them by turning over the board and following the foil traces from the resistor joints.

3. Flip the board over and locate the solder joints for the resistors and the terminals connected to the resistors. We are going to short out each resistor by soldering together the terminal joints at the bottom of the board and isolate the resistors from the IC by cutting the foil traces on the board with a scalpel (or reasonable facsimile – I used an Olfa knife). You may want to cut the traces in an area which makes it easy to re-join them in case you want to restore the autocheck operation when you reach your dotage. Photo L2 shows the board with the modifications complete. Make sure the traces are well cut or the autocheck will still activate, usually on bumpy roads.
Photo+L2+board+mods Procedure to lobotomize your Auto Check bulb check function (sometimes needed when adding HIDs)

4. Reassemble the module, insert it in the car, and test. Blessed silence! The operation is a success! The patient is blissfully unaware of the Frankenlamps lurking under the hood! Bwaaahahahahaah!!

5. Enjoy your new high-tech lights

G11/G12 coolant discussion and flushing procedure

Filed under: General Resources — Tags: — admin @ 11:50 am

G11/G12 coolant discussion and flushing procedure

Engine Coolant Flushing Procedure when switching to G12


The following is supposedly from a VAG Technical Service Bulletin (TSB):

***********************

Unlike the previous “G11″ coolant, this newly developed “G12″ product permits a cooling system fill that lasts the service life of the
engine and was designed with all-aluminum engines in mind.

Advantages over previous coolant:
Improved corrosion protection
Improve thermal stability
Improved heat transfer/control
Improved hard water tolerance
Improved environmental protection

CAUTION!G 012 A8D A1 must NEVER be mixed with any other coolant. Engine damage will result! G 012 A8D A1 is red in color. The mixture of G 012 A8D A1 and other colored coolants is immediately identifiable by discoloration (brown, purple etc.). If this mixture is used in an engine, a foamy deposit will appear in the expansion tank/radiator. This mixture is to be
drained immediately and the cooling system flushed as described
below.

Flushing procedure :Engine at operating temperature (older vehicles (like ours) with heater valve: heater on). Drain coolant (lower right side (left side -facing) corner of the rad (belly pan off) Attach hose to nipple . Apply
compressed air to expansion tank or radiator to blow out remaining coolant. Close cooling system, fill with distilled water. Run engine for a minimum of 2 minutes. Drain water and apply compressed Air to expansion tank a before close cooling system and fill with appropriate mixture ratio of G 012 A8D A1and distilled water. Test drive, check coolant level and add if necessary. Note:G 012 A8D 01 coolant may be used in older
vehicles when the original coolant is drained and cooling system flushed as described above. Inform customer that a new coolant Is used and that ONLY water or G 012 A8D A1 be used to replenish. CAUTION! Never re-use old coolant when performing
engine repairs.Dispose of old coolant properly. Flushing as specified above, or engine damage resulting from the use of a mixture of G 012 A8D A1 and other coolants is not covered by the
new vehicle warranty

OEM Boost and Vacuum Hose Clamp Sizes

Filed under: General Resources — Tags: — admin @ 11:40 am

OEM Boost and Vacuum Hose Clamp Sizes


KATE helpfully lists the dimensions of all the OEM hose clamps – while there may be an odd error or discrepancy, this is what it seems to show for clamp requirements…

Major Hoses:
MAF->Turbo: (1) 70-90 (1) 60-80
Turbo->Crossover-Pipe: (1) 50-70 (1) 60-80
Cross-over-> IC (2) 60-80
IC -> TB (1) 60-80 (1) 70-90 (1) 23-35

Smaller Hoses:
ISV (4) 25-35
WGFV (5) 12-25
BPV (2) 25-35 (4) 8-12

Illustrations for reference / confirmation:
133-70 Vacuum hoses and connecting parts
133-73 Throttle body
133-76 Mass air flow sensor
145-25 Turbocharger / Wastegate
145-55 Intercooler

Breeze constant torque clamps

Filed under: General Resources — Tags: , — admin @ 11:38 am

Breeze constant torque clamps


Prevent hose blow-off by using the best clamps for your boost system.

Breeze CT clamps from partssystems.com; part number, and number of each needed:

(3) CT-350
(2) CT-300
(1) CT-250
(1) CT-175
(2) CT-9416
(1) CT-9412

March 20, 2009

UrS Front Console Removal

Filed under: General Resources — Tags: , — admin @ 9:13 pm

UrS Front Console Removal


UrS Rear Console Removal

Filed under: General Resources — Tags: — admin @ 9:11 pm

UrS Rear Console Removal


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