UrS4 Frequently Asked Questions

March 21, 2009

Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

Filed under: ICE — Tags: , — admin @ 1:39 pm

Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

How-to integrate an aftermarket head unit with stock Bose components


I decided to go ahead and put together some information for everyone on integrating an aftermarket head unit using the Metra harness. This is using a 1995 S6 Avant with Gamma head unit as an example. I’ve found alot of FUD regarding integration with the stock Bose components, so I figured it was time to layout the facts.

What you need:

1. Metra 70-1785 harness (for easy connection to Audi harnesses)
2. Head unit with 4x >2.2v preamp outputs (for the Bose amp connections)
3. 2x ground loop isolators (prevents popping on track change)
4. High quality crimp tool (for wiring the Metra to your HU harness)
5. 5x Insulated crimp caps 14-18gauge (for the wiring connections)
6. Audi radio removal tools for your car (to get your radio out)

Head unit suggestions:
1. 4x preamp outputs of 4v
2. ability to turnoff internal amp
3. time-delay configuration for each channel

Some key points to note. You will need to wire your power antenna/remote amp trigger connection to turn on/off the Bose amps with the head unit. The GLI’s (ground loop isolators) are connected between the LF/RF/LR/RR pre-amp outputs and the harness connections to each channel on the Bose amps. The GLI’s will eliminate the pop when changing tracks by preventing a discharge of the Bose amps, as modern stereos don’t use common ground. I got a pair from Bestbuy that seem to do a great job. Here’s a picture of the GLI’s installed with the Metra harness (this is a 2-piece harness):

gliupload Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

Only 5 connections in the bottom double Metra harness will be used. They are constant +12v (battery), switched +12v (ignition), illumination, Amp Trigger and Ground. I have also labeled a photo of the harness below. Make sure you twist your wire connections tightly. You can solder them too, if you like. Here is a labeled photo of the diagram on the Gamma unit to show exactly which connections are used for the installation:

gammalabelupload Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

Backside photo of the 2nd piece of the Metra harness. I removed all the extra wires that weren’t needed.

harnesswiresupload Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

I’ve built harnesses for a Kenwood with 2.5v pre-amps and the Alpine CDA-9887, which I’m currently using. They both sound excellent with no popping ever (my stock gamma in both cars used to pop occasionally on track changes). The Alpine sounds far superior to the Gamma, especially after configuring balance/fade and the time delay for each channel. I want to try out the Alpine Imprint sound tuning kit with the Bose components. I will update this after I Imprint tune the system to let you know how things turn out, as of right now I see no need to do a Bosectomy. Here’s a finished shot (ignore dust):

installedupload Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem

The head unit fits perfectly, as the gamma uses a standard sized opening. It just slides right in and maintains a tight pressure fit. You can use the Crutchfield car configuration function to determine stereos that will fit this opening. I’ve tried to include everything, feel free to post any comments or questions and I’ll update accordingly. See my picposter for a few extra photos of stuff.

Fixing the Moisture Trap or how to get at least 67 hp for about $3

Filed under: Engine,General Resources — Tags: — admin @ 1:38 pm

Fixing the Moisture Trap or how to get at least 67 hp for about $3


The C4 UrS has a moisture trap on the boost line between the intake manifold and the ECU (computer). The moisture trap is like an old style VW bug fuel filter, except without the filter element and it only deals with air flow. The idea is is provides somewhere for moisture to drop out of the boost signal hose before it gets to MAP in the ECU.

For the UrS4, this moisture is located above the connector rack on the firewall, as shown in the photo below. (The UrS6 moisture trap is down by the ECU, in the right side kick panel).
m trap urs4   labels Fixing the Moisture Trap or how to get at least 67 hp for about $3

At some point the OE clamps on the boost hose at the UrS4 moisture trap get lazy and allow boost signal leaks or, worse, allow the hose to come off the moisture trap. If this happens, your ECU never sees a boost signal so it doesn’t tell the N75 wastegate refrequency valve to do anything. All you get for boost is that provided by the wastegate spring (e.g. 6 psi stock). So essentially, you now have a normally aspriated engine making less than 170 hp, not the 227 hp (plus) of an AAN.

The solution is to remove the old OE clamps and for about $1 or $1.50 each, replace the OE clamps with the smallest gear clamps you can find (e.g. NAPA, Pepsi Boys, CTC, etc.). For $3, the ECU gets the boost pressure signal at the MAP and can now control the N75 WGFV to provide more boost that just the wastegate spring. As a result, you gain at least 57 hp (depending on what you were making before the hoses came loose on the moisture trap). Not bad bang for the buck.

PS: When buying an UrS4, this can be used in negotiations if you find a car with blown clamps. Check it out but don’t tell the owner. Use the info to your advantage.

Rear Diff Left and Right Seal R&R DIY instructions Link

Filed under: Differential — Tags: — admin @ 1:36 pm

Rear Diff Left and Right Seal R&R DIY instructions Link


Another excellent write-up by Fred Munro (posted in the DIY section of s-cars.org).

See link below.

Sun visor clip option…

Filed under: General Resources — Tags: — admin @ 1:35 pm

Sun visor clip option…


The OEM sun visor clips can break, and are unfortunately NLA at the dealer. Here may be an option for some of us…

I bought mine from the VW dealer. 06 Passat has similar but you need to move the wire over. $5!!!


new and old Sun visor clip option...

Not exactly the same platinum color but close enough for me. The base and hook are a bit thicker and more durable, that is why I went with the VW over the Audi.

The audi part should be available at genuineaudiparts.com
PNs:
443857562J Plat.
443857562B Ecrue

Sunroof issues

Filed under: Sunroof — Tags: — admin @ 1:33 pm

Sunroof issue


Recently my sunroof would only open a little way then stop. Then to close, it would go through the close cycle, open the back, then close again, then shut down.’

I tried disconnecting the battery, tried cleaning the switch, but to no avail.

The next thing I did was to remove the motor assembly.

First, pull the switch cover off, unplug the switch plate.
Then get the torx bit #25 and remove the three screws.
The motor will then come out in your hand easily.

Replug your switch and cycle the motor with it resting in your hand, the smaller drive gear should rotate constantly for about 5 seconds then click off, the bigger timing sprocket should turn in jumps with every one revolution of the main gear, this is the timing gear, if it stops or is stuck then the drive will stop as well.

Mine had a bunch of crap laying around the drive gear and timing wheel and I suspect that the junk was interfering with the timing wheel.After cleaning the housing out I then sprayed a lubricant ( NOT WD 40 ) on the timing wheel and under the drive gear, cycled it a couple more times, then reinstalled the motor.Then ran the sunroof back and forth, happy with my success, I reinstalled the switch gear and cover plate.

On a side note, I noticed that nowhere is it mentioned that when operating the sunroof manually, you should pull out the red drive connector part way (Don’t pull it out all the way, you will have to re-time the driver ), this disengages the motor from the drive mechanism, you can strip out the allen driver if you don’t disengage the the driver.

Lincoln

Door Panel Removal Link

Filed under: Interior — Tags: — admin @ 1:32 pm

Door Panel Removal Link as posted by ORFSADOY


aka YODASFRO

Engine Bay Device Location Map

Filed under: Engine — Tags: , , — admin @ 1:30 pm

Engine Bay Device Location Map


This should help finding and understanding some of the devices that the AAN 20vt needs to run.

The AAN has a number of input and out devices that the ECU uses to control the engine. To find out more about one the devices, click on the item of interest in the list BELOW the diagram:
aan enginebaydevicemap Engine Bay Device Location Map

Walbro 255LPH GSS341 – Fuel Pump DIY & Other Fuel pump options

Filed under: Fuel Pump — Tags: , — admin @ 1:28 pm

Walbro 255LPH GSS341 – Fuel Pump DIY & Other Fuel pump options


If you’re on a tight budget and need to replace your fuel pump, here is the Walbro 255 GSS341 installation made easy. It is a $100ish option and can be considered an “upgrade” from stock. The numbers put this pump in between the Bosch 005 and 044 units, however let it be known that many have reported Walbro as “across the board” lifespan and quality wise.

YMMV, so I recommend at the very least purchasing the Walbro from a reputable reseller who backs their products with some type of warranty.

Kevin Day’s (kday’s) Cruise Control Diagnostics

Filed under: Cruise Control — Tags: — admin @ 1:27 pm

Cruise control diagnostic notes


I decided to try to fix my cruise control today. Coming back from Montreal two weeks ago was the first time I really missed having it. I guess my right foot is getting frail.

When diagnosing the problem I should have tried the simplest things first. Instead I started with what I thought were the most likely faults, based on what I’ve read about other people’s cruise problems.

First I removed the knee panel and inspected the clutch and brake switches. They seemed to be properly positioned, and the vacuum and electrical connections were secure.

Next I located the vacuum pump. It’s behind the hydraulic fluid reservoir. I went and searched through a few boxes for my hand vacuum pump (I’m moving soon and most of my stuff is already boxed up.) I disconnected the cruise pump and plugged the vacuum line onto the hand pump. I was able to pull 660 mmHg of vacuum and it held for many minutes. Okay, that’s good, no vacuum leak. (I should have done this before bothering to inspect the pedal switches visually.)

Then I removed the vacuum pump and brought it inside. After more box rummaging I found my bench power supply and my digital vacuum/pressure gauge. When the vent solenoid and the vacuum pump are engaged, the pump will pull 550 mmHg of vacuum. Disconnecting the pump but keeping the vent solenoid (really the don’t-vent solenoid) engaged, the pump held that pressure indefinitely. So the pump and vent work. That’s good.

Next step, pull the connector from the cruise control electronics box behind the glove compartment and check the column switches and wiring. For this I followed the bentley procedure. And lo and behold, I had infinite resistance on the “Set” button (pin 4 to pin icon cool Kevin Days (kdays) Cruise Control Diagnostics and 2.7Mohm on the ON switch (pin 11 to pin 5).

So now I start disassembling the steering colum covers, only to realize that there’s no way to get to the switch connector without pulling the wheel, which I didn’t want to do.

So at this point I decide to find some contact cleaner and spray the crap out of the switches at the end of the stalk. Well, lots of contact cleaner and switch wiggling later, and my cruise control works. If I had done this first I would have had to disassemble nothing at all. Oh well.

Now I’ll have cruise control for the drive to Watkins Glen tomorrow. Yay.

After run fan / pump at lower temperature

Filed under: Engine,Uncategorized — Tags: , — admin @ 1:25 pm

After run fan / pump at lower temperature

After Run Fan and Coolant Pump on at Lower Temperature


switch004 After run fan / pump at lower temperature

I figured out a way to make the after-run fan (and coolant pump) come on more frequently. I purchased a temperature switch from a 1990 90q20v (p/n 034 919 369 A) for $25 which measures underhood temperature (not coolant temp) and is set to turn on at 85 celcius and off at 80 celcius. The switch is threaded with a 10 mm thread and I picked up a used mounting bracket from a 1990-1992 VW Passat 16V and mounted it along with the switch on the valve cover using the rear allen bolt on the passenger side. I extended the wires that feed the stock switch and ran it to the new switch.

Now the after-run fan and pump comes on about 80% of the time. I tried mounting the switch on the driver’s side, but it did not get hot enough to trigger the switch. Since the switch is just above the downpipe, it will see the highest temperature.

FYI, the stock switch doesn’t come on until the coolant gets to 110 celcius which takes quite a lot.

Sean D.

« Newer PostsOlder Posts »

Powered by WordPress

Bad Behavior has blocked 318 access attempts in the last 7 days.

SEO Powered by Platinum SEO from Techblissonline