034Motorsport silicone replacement coolant hose set
March 21, 2009
Cooling system hose and sensor part numbers with heater core and flap motor info.
Cooling system hose and sensor part numbers with heater core and flap motor info.
After losing a considerable amount of coolant and not wanting to chase leaks hose after hose, I redid all of the hoses, heater core, sensors and plastic stuff in my cooling system. This is a compiled list of numbers and some info I didn’t find anywhere else here, yet.
Thanks to Kevin Day (kday) for his thread from a few years ago with part #’s (which jump started my project), and others threads with all of the info that made my project a success!
MOST IMPORTANT THING HERE: SEARCH! If you haven’t already. There is a huge amount of how to/tips and tricks info on this site about this stuff. A little SFTA and you will have a lot less headaches!
Things I have omitted from here:
-The block to turbo hose connection at the freeze plug, the o-rings on the water manifold and the metal pipes, as they are not common leak points.
-I have omitted the radiator and head gasket part numbers, but they are widely available (FAP99 and AutohausAZ are good sources).
-I also have omitted the water pump as it should have been replaced with the timing belt.
HOSES AVAILABLE FROM MOST AFTER MARKET SUPPLIERS:
4a0 121 101b – radiator to expansion tank and water manifold
4a0 121 109a – expansion tank to water pipe
4a0 121 109b – water pipe (from x-tank) to radiator
4a0 121 055c – thermostat housing to water pipe
4a0 121 055d – water pipe (from t-stat housing) to radiator
N 020 262 1 – banjo fitting on water manifold to turbo coolant line. – I just bought an 8″ piece 5/16″ bulk line from my FLAPS
034 121 063 – block (behind t-stat) to water pipe (heater/after-run pump line)
4a0 121 082 – after-run pump to water manifold
HOSES FROM DEALERS ONLY:
4a0 121 081 – water pipe (heater/after-run pump) to after-run pump
4a0 819 373c – heater pipe to heater control valve
4a1 819 373f – bleeder screw assembly (hose)
4a0 819 371c – heater core to ‘T’ fitting (HVAC sensor port)
4a0 819 371b – ‘T’ fitting to heater flange (on back of block)
HARDWARE:
4a0 819 809 – heater valve
034 121 143e – coolant flange (plastic)
N 900 351 03 – coolant flange o-ring
035 121 113b – thermostat (87′C)
035 121 119 – o-ring t-stat housing
074 121 121b – t-stat housing
443 819 031c – heater core
034 965 561c – after-run pump
4a0 121 403 – expansion tank
025 121 142 – clip for HVAC sensor in ‘T’ fitting
0 132 801 003 – flap motors in heater box (see notes below about this)
4a0 959 101a – blower motor
431 819 225 – heater box gasket (seal between box and bulkhead)
SENSORS/THERMOSWITCHES:
191 959 481c – 2 stage fan switch in bottom of radiator (stock temperature ranges)
054 919 369b – after-run pump switch
034 919 369c – MFTS (Multi-Function ThermoSwitch)
034 919 369m – coolant temperature sensor (ECU)
025 906 041a – HVAC sensor (in ‘T’ fitting)
NOTES:
Some things that might be of assistance:
-The first place to look for coolant leaks that I have found are the after-run pump, expansion tank, t-stat housing/seal, heater flange, heater valve, turbo coolant line and HVAC sensor ‘T’ fitting.
-I had to cut off a lot of my old hoses as they were original.
-The block to water pipe hose behind the thermostat is easier to work with by removing the water pipe. This pipe is bolted on to the transmission bell housing with a 16mm head bolt.
-The replacement heater core I got has slightly smaller diameter intlet/outlet ports. This is fine as the hose clamps can bite down enough to make a good seal.
-I replaced everything in the heater box while it was out ’cause I didn’t want to take it back out again! It is not hard, but is a bit time consuming. It can be removed without removing the center console. Follow the Bentley procedure, but instead of removing the console, do this:
1)remove glove box and both footwell ducts.
2)remove 90′ defroster air duct connector tubes (they snap out)
3)pull heater box out just enough to get at the red and blue flap motor plugs and unclip plugs. I used a small pick with a 90′ bend at the tip as it was hard to get my hand at the right angle to unclip them. Some say that removing the radio makes it easier to get at the plugs but there is a metal bracket in the way on my car
4)heater box can now be removed.
-I used bulk closed-cell foam gasket material from Home Depot for the footwell ducts, panel duct and heater core seals.
-When rebuilding the heater box, I opted to use one type of flap motor. Audi lists a different part number for each of the three flap motors (hot-red, cold-blue and fresh air-black). They are all the same motor with different color/style plugs. Each motor has a different price ranging from $60-$200. I saved about $170 by ordering 3 of the cheapest one (the fresh air motor) and clipping the old plugs off of the old motors (with enough wire left for splicing!) and soldering them on the new motors.
-I used silicone RTV sealant to seal the heater core opening. It stinks. After 3 weeks, it has ‘gassed out’ a lot, but I can still smell it. Probably there is something better out there.
-I used genuineaudiparts.com for my dealer only parts source. They are the least expensive I have found.
I hope this is useful.
Ext Temp Display Bulb Replacement
Ext Temp Display Bulb Replacement
Thank you Charlie Smith for this one!
Trunk Lock R&R
Trunk Lock R&R
Trunk lock cylinder rehab or swap.
I replaced my trunk lock because the aluminum arm that gets depressed when you push the chrome button had broken. You can just swap in a used or new lock if you don’t care about ever using your key in there. But I wanted to be able to use mine. The only parts that are unique to your key are the pins inside lock cylinder, which is removable from the lock itself.
This is a small write up to rehab a seized up lock or swap the cylinder into a replacement lock. For a swap you just need the old and new locks and some Lithium Grease. For a rehab you need Lithium Grease, a steel or brass brush (Dremel works well) and possibly some BP Blaster.
-First remove the lock from the trunk lid: With the trunk open, remove the trunk lid liner. 5 or 7 stainless screws and then pull the bottom out first to release the tabs at the top (if you still have them). Then disconnect the two metal arms that are connected to the lock by releasing the white clips on each of them. They turn to release. One has a convenient tab to help, the other does not. Next disconnect the wire for the lock sensors. Lastly there are 2 8mm nuts holding the lock down, remove them and pull the lock out.
-Next, remove the lock cylinder from the lock: Remove the “Jesus Clip”, it sits in a recess so you may have to slide a knife or very small flat head screw driver under it as you pry it off.
Then pull the black plastic cap up and off.
Then push the lock cylinder out by pushing on the shaft that the “Jesus Clip” was on. If you are rehabbing a lock you my have to beat on this. The spring and small metal piece should stay where they are. If not, just set them aside.
Now you have the lock cylinder out.
At this point if you are JUST swapping the cylinder from your lock into a new lock, you can carefully (without removing any of the pins) clean the old grease off and apply some new Lithium Grease and reassemble (some steps below on that). If it is really gummy or corroded continue on below for the rehab.
With the cylinder out, clean off all the old grease carefully with out removing any pins.
When removing the pins, they MUST go EXACTLY where they come out of. Other wise your lock will not work and it will take a LOT of time or a locksmith to get it back in key.
Each pin can only be removed from one side or the other, not both. On this cylinder 5 get removed from one side and 2 from the other.
They are removed on the side they protrude from and are removed by pulling them out.
If they are seized in, you can try soaking them in PB Blaster and you can also push them out from the opposite side with a small flat head screw driver.
I would recommend doing them one at a time so you do not mix them up. If you realize the actual cylinder is corroded badly, you can swap the pins in to a new or used cylinder BUT they MUST go in the the same positions they are removed from.
Once you get a pin out you can either lube it up with Lithium Grease and put it back in, if it looks and moves well. OR if it has corrosion on it you can hold it with some pliers and take a metal brush or Dremel to it, being careful not to bend the pins. Then grease it and put it back in.
When you are satisfied that they are all moving freely and well greased, you can put the cylinder back in the lock. It would also be a good idea to either coat the whole cylinder in grease or apply some to the inside of the lock…or both. They grease keeps out the water which prevets freezing. There is no heater on this lock.
The lock has two channels for the pins to travel in.
The cylinder has a groove in one side of it and that should be somewhat inline with the hinge when inserting the cylinder.
Once inserted, if the spring and little metal piece came out earlier, put them back in first, then put the black cap back on so that the tab is under the hinged arm.
Install the Jesus Clip and try your key. If all is good, reinstall in the trunk in reverse from removal.
NOTE: Key operation has four positions. 1 is with the key in at an unlocked state with the trunk NOT in valet mode. 2 is a momentary turn counter clockwise, this will unlock the trunk and all other doors. 3 is a momentary turn clockwise, this will lock the trunk and all other doors. 4 is a full 90 degree turn clock wise, this will lock the trunk and all other doors and leave the trunk in valet mode so that it can not be unlocked with the valet key or the power locks.
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Changing the transmission and rear differential fluids
Changing the transmission and rear differential fluids
some notes on transmission and rear differential fluid changes
since I couldn’t find a how-to anywhere, here’s one:
This was done on my 1995 S6, which has the stock transmission, and stock rear locking diff, so the procedure may vary slightly for the 95.5 cars.
Pregame: Jack up your car and set it on jackstands, so that all 4 wheels are off the ground and it is level. Take appropriate steps to ensure it won’t fall on you, since you will be working fully underneath a 3800lb+ vehicle. Soak all drain and fill plugs with PB Blaster and let sit for a few minutes.
Section I: Transmission
On the bottom of the trans, there are two plugs, both 10mm allen head. One is at the lowest point of the trans case toward the front, and the other is tucked up in between the catalytic converters. These plugs drain the common fluid for the transmission, front diff, and center diff. First, remove the fill plug, to make sure you can fill the trans back up again before you drain it. This is located on the driver’s side of the transmission above and slightly behind the axle, and is another 10mm allen head plug. You’ll probably need a breaker bar to get it loose. Once that’s out, remove the drain plugs. I was only able to remove the front one, since I couldn’t fit my 10mm allen bit in between the cats. All the oil came out via the front plug anyway, so it doesn’t seem to be necessary to remove the between-the-cats one. Once it has sat for a few minutes and drained, clean and replace the drain plug.
To refill, you could use a pump if you want, but it’s not necessary. Buy 5 feet of 1/2″ ID clear plastic tubing, stick one end into the fill hole, and route the other end up through the suspension, on top of your left front tire, and out the left wheel well. Now, cut the tip off your bottle of gear oil (GL-4 spec, do NOT use GL-5 in your transmission, it will eat your syncros). Put the end of the plastic tubing over the tip of the oil bottle, turn it upside down, and squeeze all the oil into the trans through the tube. The tranny/front diff/center diff take 3qt of gear oil, fill all of them through the tube. Keep the bottle up high, so gravity helps to feed the oil into the transmission. Fill until oil seeps slightly out of the fill hole, which should be almost exactly 3qt. Put the fill plug back in, wipe up the mess with a rag, and you’re done.
Section II: Rear Diff
Again, there are two drain plugs and one fill plug. They are all 17mm allen head plugs. In order to remove the fill plug, you will have to first remove the plastic underbody tray. It is held on by two 13mm bolts, and two 13mm nuts. Then, remove the fill plug – it is on the passenger side of the diff, above and slightly rearward of the axle. Remove both drain plugs (everything will probably drain by just removing one plug, but they’re both easy to access so I removed them both), let diff drain, replace drain plugs. Take your 5′ of tubing, route through the rear suspension, over the top of the right rear tire, and out the right rear wheel well. Fill the rear diff through the tube, using 2qt of GL-5 spec gear oil. GL-5 is meant for extreme pressure usage, and is therefore ideal for differentials. However, it is not compatible with brass syncronisers due to a high sulphur content, which is why it can’t be used in the transmission. Fill until oil seeps slightly out the fill hole, replace fill plug, replace underbody tray, and you’re done.
On my car, I used Pennzoil Syncromesh 75W90 GL-4 in the trans, and Valvoline Durablend Synthetic 80W90 GL-5 (extreme pressure) in the diff. I’ve had excellent luck with the syncromesh in both street and track situations in my previous car, and as an added bonus it’s much cheaper than mobil1, redline, or the audi stuff. The Valvoline was the only GL-5 fluid available at my local parts place, so that’s what I used. So far everything is working great, although everyone has their own preference for oil brands. In my opinion, as long as the oil is good quality and meets the correct viscosity and GL ratings, it should be fine. I’ll be checking mine a couple times over the summer to make sure everything’s ok. As of now, the car shifts much better, and drives smoother than before…especially when going into 1st.
How to set the time for clock in your instrument cluster
How to set the time for clock in your instrument cluster
Pull the slender black “knob” on the left hand side out and hold it out. The clock will advance.
Don’t blame me that you have to go around twice because you miss the first time.
Bilstein Frozen Strut Syndrome…
Bilstein Frozen Strut Syndrome…
The Bilstein strut insert is an inverted damper. The damper part with the gas charge is located at the top inside the chrome shaft. The yellow lower part of the insert is hollow and encases the piston rod and bump stop. There are vents in the bottom of the hollow shell to let air in and out as the damper moves up and down.
By design, it acts as an air pump. On compression, the damper part pumps out past the seal in the strut cap. On rebound, any moisture on the chrome shaft is sucked past the cap seal into the strut housing. Eventually, enough water collects in there to partially fill both the strut housing and the hollow insert shell.
When the temperature drops, it causes the water to freeze. The damper bangs against the ice and you have a rigid suspension. After a while doing this, the banging generates enough heat to melt the ice and the problem seems to go away.
I experienced this behavior with Bilstein HDs and stock springs. Over time, I replaced 3 inserts under warranty until I figured out what was going on.
Vent holes in the strut insert are here:
Here’s my simple fix? I drilled a hole in the bottom of the strut housing to allow the water to drain. About a 3/32″ drill bit. The hole has to go in at an angle so the drill can get past the axle. Be careful that the drill bit doesn’t go through and into the insert. It won’t affect the functionality of the insert but you won’t be able to exchange it under warranty if it’s got a hole in it. Or, you could remove the inserts before drilling.
Also, check the condition of your strut bellows. they keep water off the strut shaft.
Link to plain English wiring diagrams for a 95 A6
Link to plain English wiring diagrams for a 95 A6
Which is odd. It’s from a Polish website.
Rear subframe parts diagram and torque specs
Rear subframe parts diagram and torque specs
1 – Crossmember II – Note different types – Mount on differential
2 – Gasket – Always replace – Remove protective backing and install on CV joint
3 – Crossmember I – Note different types – Continuously angled edge points toward front of vehicle
4 – Bonded rubber bushing
5 – Self-locking nut – Always replace – 60 Nm (44 ft lb)
6 – Driveshaft – Before disconnecting, check colored markings and/or put mark on flange shaft and driveshaft
7 – 55 Nm (41 ft lb) – Always replace
8 – Crossmember – Note different types – Provided with bonded rubber bushing – When mounting the crossmember, make sure the four holes in the crossmember are aligned as concentrically as possible to the stay bolts. – Align the rear axle after repairs.
9 – Self-locking nut – Always replace – 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
10 – Wiring harness bracket – Connect to trapezoidal arm
11 – Wiring harness For ABS wheel speed sensor – Install in bracket – Do not pinch when mounting on trapezoidal arm
12 – Trapezoidal arm – After removing, installing or replacing: check toe and camber
13 – Hex nut – 10 Nm (7 ft lb)
14 – Bolt – 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
15 – Self-locking nut – Always replace – 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
16 – Bracket – Welded onto floor
17 – Bonded rubber bushing – Coat first with acid-free lubricant – Press into bracket by hand
18 – Transverse link – Left and right sides different – Check camber after replacing
19 – ABS wheel speed sensor Press into wheel bearing housing to stop
20 – Wheel bearing housing
21 – Bracket for ABS wheel speed sensor wire
22 – Self-locking nut – Always replace – 40 Nm (30 ft lb)
23 – Washer
24 – Self-locking nut – Always replace – 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
25 – Self-locking nut – Always replace – 85 Nm (63 ft lb) – Tighten with vehicle standing on wheels
Part numbers for the engine coolant and oil pressure and temp senders
Part numbers for the engine coolant and oil pressure and temp senders
Kate says if you look at 919-65 you will find:
Item 9 = G62 coolant temp sender for ECU = 035 919 369 M
Item 15 = F98, after run pump switch = 054 919 369 B
Item 16 = F76, multifunction temp switch (coolant gauge temp sender) = 034 919 369 C
Item (17) = F1, oil pressure switch (for idiot light) UrS4 = 056 919 081 E, white, 1.8 Bar BUT UrS6 = 068 919 081, 1.4 Bar, 1 pin, black
Item (19) = F22/G10, oil pressure swith/gauge sender (for UrS4s) = 034 919 561
Item 20 = Oil temp gauge sender = 035 919 521 B
Item 21 = sealing washer for 20 = N 013 827 2
Also:
Climate control temp sender (fits in T-fitting near back of the engine) = 025 906 041A (2 pin blue 20 mm)
Plastic “T” for the above = 4A0 819 497
O-ring for the above = N 903 168 02
Retaining spring for temp sender = 032 121 142